The Akropoli.
Thousands and thousands of years old. Saturated with history literally oozing out of every crack in every stone. As much as I hate doing "touristy" things, you can't miss this one. If you're in Athens, this is what you're doing. No questions asked.
We were told to get to the Acropolis around 8.30 am because it gets hot hot hot (which, I feel like is the story of this trip), but according to our usual morning routine, 8.30 was going to come way too quickly. Soooo, we showed up around 10, bright-eyed and bushy-tailed ready to hike to the top and see the city. We find the stairs to the Parthenon (no thanks to the
terrible signage that seems to be the theme of Greek life!) and start the slippery trek up. Each step you take is amazing. The view is breathtaking until you realize that if you go up higher even just two more feet it gets even better. Good thing I remembered the camera today!
The Parthenon is surrounded by the ruins of other buildings in what used to be quite the happening place in ancient times. There were at least a dozen other structures surrounding the area, other temples, theaters, ceremonial gates. The whole thing was pretty staggering. Each column was engraved and sculpted with such detail that no postcard or image in a book could ever reveal. How did they do that with the tools they had then?!
At the bottom of the great hill is a new museum designed by the contemporary architect Bernard Tschumi. He had the laborious task of placing a modern museum to house and pay homage to all the artifacts from the Acropolis directly
on top of ruins from ancient times that they were currently excavating! I must say, he did an amazing job.
The columns of the new structure are carefully placed within the ruins and a very graceful and open building rises above. The ground floor platform is open in places so that visitors can look down into the excavation site and watch its progress. Glass floors are throughout the entire building so that you can always see this archeological work. Even the second and third floors have glass so that you
conceptually are able to see all the way to the dig (
practically all it really allows you to see is up other visitor's dresses, but hey... it was a great idea). The museum brilliantly displays the astounding work of the ancient Greeks and seeing the old being housed by the new so elegantly is phenomenal in itself.
After cooling off in the museum we ventured back out into the sun to find the Roman Agora and other temples at the bottom of the rising hill. The whole site is very humbling. I think I'm still trying to wrap my mind around the idea of walking through the same structures as the Apostle Paul or priestesses of Athena.
As the sun went down we went wandering again, this time in search of food... shocking. We remembered that Jon, our favorite person from Rhodes, had suggested a restaurant which we sought with a vengeance. Success! After we sat, the most amazing dinner ensued. Basically, despite my ability to ramble with no end in sight, I do not possess adequate words to describe this meal. Therefore, I will simply regurgitate the descriptions found from the menu since it is taking all my concentration to not salivate on my computer as I am reminiscing the harmony of ingredients and flavors.
First there were dumplings filled with feta cheese mousse, olives, spearmint and topped with pomegranate sauce. Oh, and we can't forget the wine. Oh, the wine...
Then there was roasted sea bass (the whole fish! head and all) topped with sauce and gently placed on zucchini and wild greens. All this was followed by "Millefeuille of fiorentines, catalana cream and caramelized apricots" (that's basically heavenly almond sugar wafers layered with sublimely smooth custard and succulent apricots that despite being caramelized, managed to keep a tartness that was exquisite as it cut the sweetness of the custard).
Architect?! Why didn't I choose Chef?!
Stuffed and happy we walked past the Acropolis lit up in all its glory by soft spotlighting from below. We caught the tram (after just getting a bit lost-- we're getting better!) and found the apartment.
Ancient Architecture.
Modern Architecture.
Delicious Food.
Are you kidding me? Is this education or what?
