getting high

Today was the last day in Greece. Last day of the half of the trip that in no way is "war torn". So now the e-mails berating my oh-so-hard trip can stop. From now on it will be different. But that just means that we had to savor today all the more.

As previously mentioned, the first day in Athens resulted in my purchase of a bus tour to Delphi (yes, I know. I thought it was cheesy while I was doing it as well...), a trip of about a three hour drive, an afternoon spent at the historic site and the drive home. Mom and I enjoyed our dining experience so much last night (and the maitre-de enjoyed us so much!) that we accepted his invite for reservations on Kuzina's rooftop terrace for a second dinner.  So, if this tour was a bust, at least we had dinner to save the day!

Athenian treasury

We left the apartment by 7.15 (what a feat!) to head into the city and catch the KeyTour bus to which we were assigned. Of course finding the office for once was simple and we arrived 45 minutes early. Oh well, at least we were able to sit in AC!

We loaded onto the bus, instantly identifying who was the "Annoying American", "Drunk Aussie", "Question Lady" and "Spoiled Spanish Child". We fought back sleep as we drove through the Greek countryside listening to our tour guide deftly exhibit her vast knowledge of Greek mythology and national history. It was very impressive.

temple of Apollo

We drove up, up and up some more. From the agricultural fields into the mountains that advertise the skiing season and winter resorts. Our ears started popping before we were even halfway up and yet we continued driving up those rocky mountains.

We finally reached Delphi, a religious site thousands of years old, originally devoted to Mother Earth and then later to Apollo, god of light and the sun, truth and prophecy, medicine, music, poetry and the arts. Needless to say, he was pretty hard core. Delphi was home of the main oracle in Greek mythology who would speak directly to Apollo, relay his messages to her priests who in turn would tell any pilgrim who made the long journey up the mountain in search for answers to his questions. (It was discovered in the 80s that the Oracle was actually sitting on part of the mountain where hallucinogenic gas seeped through so I'm sure her babbling songs were a joy to hear and most informative.)

The site contained the Temple of Apollo, treasuries for each Greek city-state housing offerings of thanks for the Oracle when she correctly predicted military exploits, a theater, stadium, an altar, Roman agora and a multitude of commemorative statues. Most of these things were preserved and held in the museum next to the site. It was all pretty astounding. The fact that it was all perched on a mountain so steep that most visitors (probably all the Americans!) didn't even hike to the top just made it that much more sensational.

valley of 3 million olive trees... no joke

The bus ride home was lively thanks to the Jersey woman and her husband who started yelling at the tour guide for not delivering the lunch experience they were expecting. Mom and I sunk down in our seats, ready to denounce our American citizenship if it meant being associated with Bitchy up there and nodding in agreement with our fellow passengers as they all traded the "Are you kidding me?!" incredulously widened eyes. I wanted to smack her as a sign of protest for all polite tourists, but I was pretty sure she could kill me.


(Came to find out later that she was friends with the Dean's son. Hmmm, that seems to fit...)

The ride held another shocking event as we discovered the mother and son sitting directly in front of us were not only from the East Coast, not only from Virginia, not only from Fauquier County, but from Hume, a stone's throw away from my parents house. So there we are, discussing the menu of the Orlean Market and the new location of Warrenton gas stations as we drive through millions of olive trees perched on the mountain side of ancient Greece for gracious sakes. Oh, small, small world.

mom racing in the stadium. i think she won

We disembarked the bus (quickly so Jersey wouldn't follow us and hope for a nice American dinner together) and headed back Kuzina where, as promised, we had a roof top table waiting. Now this is no ordinary roof top terrace. This has the most perfect view of the Acropolis and as we ate another perfect meal, we got to watch as the temples were lit up in all their glory. Pictures don't do it justice. It was truly amazing.

octopus

Dinner was finger-licking as expected. Tonight's menu featured grilled and cured octopus with fennel shavings drizzled with amazing-ness followed by bread-- oh! the bread!-- with olive oil-- oh! the olive oil!-- and olives. All of this was followed by more risotto than four people could eat on top of which sat a lobster that didn't even need melted butter lest one not be able to taste every minuscule flavor screaming out "pure enjoyment! pure pleasure!".

risotto and lobster

In full fatty fashion, we ordered the same delectable dessert from last night: walnut wafers with custard and apricots. A full bottle of wine completed our slip into gluttony. Holding the camera up to take pictures of the illuminated Pantheon seemed suddenly strenuous thanks to our gorged stomachs.


We came home to no electricity in the apartment (oh the horror of no AC!) and stumbled around in the dark attempting to pack our bags and find computer cords. Luckily the power came back on as we slipped into bed and the air conditioning was revived.

Four hours sleep and then it's off to the airport where the adventures in war torn cities will truly commence. Great last day: high mountains (with high Oracles), high roof top dinners and high hopes for research in Cyprus. Bring on the post-traumatic!

acropolis at night