old vs. new

Spanish Steps

What a bummer to wake up to another brilliant day in Italy. Mid 80s and dazzlingly sunny. I could come up with tons of cliches about sun coming through the leaves, the vibrance of the streets and the smells of cappuccinos and pastries but I will refrain because I might actually gag myself from the cheesiness. Still, it's wonderful and deserves the platitude.

Once again at my morning cafe (where there is free internet!) trying and failing to have a legitimate conversation with the barista (did you know this title applies to a male as well as female? Just looked it up so I'm sure.). It is funny. Having everyone I encounter speak to me in Italian I find myself attempting to use it myself in my reply. However, unfortunately for some reason it keeps coming out in Danish. Yup. I could hardly speak the language while I studied there, yet much to my embarrassment,  it has apparently come back to me and pops out whenever I am trying to be suave.



-- Un alto cappuccino, bella?  (Another cappuccio?)

-- Nej tak. Tak for mad og drikke.   (No thanks. Thanks for the food and drink.)

I mean, seriously?!

At least, even though the attempt to blend in linguistically has failed miserably, I am starting to get my bearings. Walking all around the city makes you realize how close everything is. However, lovely map I purchased is still an necessity. Of course, the simple purchasing of this said map was an experience in itself. I sauntered into the bookstore (which I found on my own!) and found a great fold-out map book with a map specific to each neighborhood. (Little did I know-- thanks to my keen observation skills-- that I was purchasing a book written only in Italian. Keeps way-finding interesting...) I paid for it with my brand new euros and promptly turned around to leave and ran straight into the glass door. Bang.

-- Aye! Aye! Senorita, attenzione! Sta bene? Attenzione!

Needless to say, my flattened nose and I got out of there asap. Stupid American.

This language barrier is not always a problem. The younger waiters seem to love to start up a conversation using their Italian charisma to try to charm the unknowing American girl eating alone. It seems that eating alone is something completely unseen in this gregarious country.

-- Aye, bella. Why you eating alone?


-- Oh, just traveling around by myself. 


-- You married, bella?


-- No.

-- Boyfriend?

(smile and suddenly am very interested in my insalada.)

-- My name is Massimo. I take you after work? We meet at the club? You have beautiful eyes.

(I'm wearing sunglasses.)

Alright, enough with Italian "culture" and more on adventures. Took my brilliant and perplexing map book and headed to the Spanish steps. Talk about tourists! There were so many people there I felt like taking a shower afterward. A girl came up to me asking me to take her picture. She too was very concerned I was traveling alone and insisted on taking a picture of me as well. It is an very "Where's Waldo" image but the first to prove that I'm actually here and not finding pictures on the internet. So, there ya go.

Right across from the Spanish steps is what can only be described as the "Magnificent Mile" of Rome. Gucci, Prada, and so many other names that even someone like me could recognize. To make my sister proud I did go into Prada. The woman at the door gave a look of disapproval at my sad attempt to dress like an Italian but let me in anyway. It was difficult to pass up the 478 euro shoes ($672 in US dollars!), especially since they were 30% off, but somehow I managed. Sorry, Kate.

Piazza del Popolo

Anyway, I finally made it to the Piazza del Popolo yesterday afternoon. This plaza has twin churches designed by Bernini. Despite the piazza's name, the churches were closed to the public, but I think I could draw their floor plans by heart (thank you Peter Eisenman) and made me starting considering a new tattoo (kidding Mom). It was cool seeing something that you have studied so intently close enough to actually touch it (maybe that's why they don't let people inside... hmm).

Then it was off to the Maxxi modern art museum designed by Zaha Hadid. Now, I must stay that I categorically don't like Ms. Hadid. I think she is a terrible lecturer and her theories on architecture seem to disregard the common human experience of urban space; however, every museum of hers I have visited I have thoroughly enjoyed. The space was crazy but definitely created open galleries that featured the art very well. The courtyard was left undesigned and is being used for the YAP (Young Architects Program) as a similar design space to the MOMA's PS1. Up and coming architects submit proposals for what to do with the space each year and the winning design is installed. It was really cool and a great contrast to the nearby piazzas of the 1800s.

Maxxi lobby

Alright, I am heading out since this nosey barista keeps reading over my shoulder trying to see if I am writing about him, which of course, I now am. I was kind at first but now I am about to punch him in the face. Dude, stop sitting down at my table and trying to "conversation me" and go make me another cappuccino!

PS- pleased to report only 2 blisters yesterday. Think I might win the shoe battle after all.

Maxxi reception desk

courtyard by stARTT

Inside the Maxxi

Piazza del Popolo